Tape the wire to the coathanger and pull it through. As you pry up, put the coathanger piece through. The carpet will not fully come up, you just want to give yourself enough room to run the wires. Use a pry bar gently to pry up the carpeting beside the wiring loom at the front left spare compartment. ![]() Remove the 2 chrome hooks on the left side of the trunk and also remove the spare tireģ. Use this to connect the chassis ground wire from the amp. Remove the white nut on the right side of the space for the amp. Keep the wires connected to the amp but don't reinstall the stock amp yet.ġ. When happy with it, you should put the velcro tape on the bottom to hold it in place and zip ties if needed. Connect all wires to the amp and test fit the new amp in this space. I have set the amp to: bass boost 0, crossover about 60hz, mode of low pass, level about 40%, sensitivity 100mv-2v.ħ. This will allow you to easily make adjustments to the amp later.Ħ. Dremel out the front plastic piece that sits between the 2 front screw holes. ![]() I used a dremel oscillating tool but you can use a normal dremel with 90 degree adapter.ĥ. Dremel off the back plastic piece that is still in the car (under the piece you just removed). You do not need to take the amp off the assembly.Ĥ. Take off the front screws (2) and back nuts (2) holding the amp assembly to the car. Disconnect the 3 electrical connectors on the Bose amp.ģ. The amp is in the left side of the trunk. Of course this requires some customization but there will be enough space.Ģ. Once the wiring is done, drill the sub into the box with the supplied hardware. Also, the male connectors on the polk sub required cutting off the connectors from the the sub box wire because they were slightly too small. Then you take a 3rd strand of speaker wire (about 8in), tear it in half so you only have a single wire and connect the other pos and neg on opposite sides of the sub. Basically you connect the positive and neg from the sub box to the corresponding terminals but on opposite sides of the sub. Something to pull wires through - I used coathanger wire and tape About 7ft total of 12-14g speaker wire if not included in amp kitĥ. Assorted electrical connectors (quick connects, butt connectors), zip ties, electrical tape, velcro tapeħ. Scosche Se10*10-Inch Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure Ħ. ![]() Polk Audio db1040DVC 10-Inch Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer ĥ. TruConnex 2 channel line output converter: Ĥ. Amp Wiring kit - I used Best Buy's kit from prior project but you can find these online. I am just lazy and opted to use a box since I don't use my trunk much.Ģ. So anyone who does not want a sub box in the truck could still run it in the stock sub location. Although this is not a true open air sub, it works VERY well in this capacity. Only difference vs my S6 was that in my S4 I had the sub put in the stock location in the rear deck with dynamat. It is not like some shitty system you would hear in a high schoolers car btw. I ran this setup in my S4 and was very happy with it.
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